SF
Table 1A  ·  No. 05
San Francisco / Napa Valley

The valley
they don’t
advertise.

Convertible on the Trail. Polaris over the Rockies. OVID at 1,800 feet on volcanic ash — and the tea leaf salad that will reconfigure your sense of what a salad is allowed to accomplish.

37.7749° N  ·  122.4194° W
38.2975° N  ·  122.2869° W
Issue No. 05  ·  2025
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Issue No. 05
“The Napa Valley is at least two places at once. The trick is knowing which one you’re actually after.”

You pick up the convertible at SFO before 9am, take the bridge east while the bay is still deciding whether to be gray, and hit Highway 29 just as the valley starts making its case. The sensible move is Silverado Trail — locals take it, the view is better, there are no stoplights until Calistoga — but for the first hour, with the top down and the Mayacamas rising on your left, even the tourist route feels like a defensible choice.

The Napa Valley is at least two places at once. There’s the one they sell: $42 flatbreads, tasting rooms staffed by people who use the word “terroir” at a volume designed to carry across the room, the ambient sense that you’re paying to perform the experience of caring about wine. And then there’s the valley underneath it — found at Stony Hill on a Spring Mountain appointment, at the Oakville Grocery counter with a paper bag of provisions and nowhere particular to be, on Pritchard Hill where OVID grows Cabernet on volcanic ash at 1,800 feet and doesn’t advertise anything to anybody.

San Francisco is the thing you do before and after, and it is more than enough. The original Burma Superstar on Clement Street makes the tea leaf salad that will reconfigure your sense of what a salad is allowed to accomplish. Roxie’s Food Center on San Jose Avenue in the Outer Mission serves lunch the way lunch should be served: fast, no ceremony, better than you were expecting. The bay and the cable cars and the bridge are right there when you want them. You probably don’t want them first.

JFK to SFO in Polaris.

35,000 miles. A flat bed over the Rockies. Full day on the ground by 10am.

35kMileagePlus Miles · JFK–SFO Polaris
25kAlaska Miles · Best-case First
1:1Chase → MileagePlus Transfer

The cleanest domestic business class redemption in the United program — and the evening westbound gets you on the ground with the whole day ahead.

United runs Polaris Business on its East Coast transcons, and the JFK–SFO route is the cleanest domestic business class redemption in the program. The ask: 35,000 MileagePlus miles one-way for a lie-flat seat, a real meal service, and roughly four hours of not sitting in a middle seat beside someone’s emotional support carry-on. The evening westbound departure gets you on the ground in the morning with the full day ahead — enough time to clear the rental counter and be on Silverado Trail by 10am.

Chase Ultimate Rewards transfers to MileagePlus at 1:1, immediately, no waiting period — your Sapphire balance converts directly and spends the same day. Alaska Mileage Plan is the dark horse for anyone flying Alaska or American metal to SFO: partner awards can surface at 25,000 miles one-way in first on the right inventory days, and Alaska’s program still prices by distance rather than by whatever the algorithm feels like that morning.

The Chase Sapphire Reserve earns 3x on all travel and dining, and a week that includes Press, Ashes & Diamonds, Angele, and a Pritchard Hill appointment will generate meaningful points before you’ve processed the first bill. The real move is watching for Chase-to-MileagePlus transfer bonuses, which surface occasionally and have historically run 30–40 percent — when they appear, move that day.

Where to eat.

Four places. Two cities. None of them need the introduction they’re about to get.

Press Restaurant
Restaurant

The 72-inch Argentine wood-fired grill running at the center of the room is not a design choice — it is the entire argument, and the dry-aged beef that comes off it arrives with the kind of char you spend years chasing without knowing exactly what you’re looking for. The wine list runs to 3,000 bottles with a serious focus on older Napa vintages that most valley restaurants can’t be bothered to cellar properly, priced with less aggression than the room would justify.

→ Request the bar counter seats facing the grill — the sommelier team talks considerably more freely there, and the education is included in the price of whatever you’re drinking.

Ashes & Diamonds
Wine Bar

A 1960s roadside property restored into the most architecturally coherent tasting room in the valley — all glass and poured concrete and deliberate mid-century detail, the Napa that might have happened if the 1970s had gone differently. They make restrained, Bordeaux-influenced whites and reds and pour them in a space that manages to feel both genuinely glamorous and genuinely relaxed without visibly trying to be either.

→ Order the Hommage Blanc: Semillon-driven, estate fruit, more rigorous than most Napa whites at twice the price — and the kind of wine you’ll be trying to track down at retail the whole drive home.

Burma Superstar
Hidden Gem

The original on Clement Street in the Inner Richmond is the one that matters — opened in 1992, before the concept of a Burmese restaurant in San Francisco was a concept anyone had thought to market, and still the best version of the tea leaf salad: fermented lahpet, fried garlic, toasted sesame, dried shrimp, tomato, five distinct textures running at once, a dish that functions as a complete argument about what a salad is allowed to accomplish. There are other locations now. Go to Clement Street.

→ They don’t take reservations; arrive at 5:30 when the door opens and you’ll be seated before the line forms.

Roxie’s Food Center
Quick Bite

A neighborhood grocery and deli counter on San Jose Avenue in the Outer Mission — 94112, not a neighborhood that gets written up — that has been feeding the same blocks for decades with the quiet competence of a place that has never once needed anyone from outside the zip code to validate it. The hot food case and the sandwich counter do the work; the prices reflect a business that exists for the people who live there rather than the people who are visiting to eat somewhere authentic.

→ Come before noon and point at whatever is in the hot case — the regulars ordering around you will tell you everything you need to know without being asked.

This week’s bottle.

Chardonnay
Stony Hill Vineyard
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley  ·  2021  ·  $45–$65

Fred McCrea planted Chardonnay on this hillside in 1943 — which is to say he was farming Napa Chardonnay before the category existed, before anyone had agreed on what it was supposed to taste like, and before the market was offering to reward him for any of it. His family still owns the land. They still don’t irrigate. They still skip malolactic fermentation entirely.

The result — grown on rocky, volcanic-influenced soils above 800 feet on Spring Mountain, picked for balance rather than score, aged in mostly neutral oak — tastes like it was made by people who were never particularly interested in what the market wanted, and aged into something the market eventually came to want anyway.

Serve it at 46 to 48 degrees and leave it in the glass for ten minutes before forming any opinions. It moves from taut green apple and white flower into something broader and more generous without ever losing the seam of acidity that keeps the whole thing organized. This is not a butter wine.

Stony Hill sells the majority of production through a direct mailing list at stonyhillvineyard.com — worth joining now for next year’s allocation. In the Bay Area, K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco stocks it when available; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant in Berkeley carries it sporadically.

Raw oysters. Grilled halibut. Roast chicken.

Anything where richness would be precisely the wrong call. The 2021 is drinking well now and has five comfortable years ahead of it.

Serve46–48°F. Ten minutes in the glass before forming opinions.
DrinkNow through 2026–2027.
FindK&L Wine Merchants, SF · Kermit Lynch, Berkeley · stonyhillvineyard.com
Price$45–$65 retail.

Silverado Trail,
and the valley they don’t advertise.

The mistake is Highway 29. Everyone makes it.

Highway 29 is in every guide, it’s where the famous names are stacked up for half a mile in either direction, and it’s the reason you’ll spend twenty minutes looking for parking in Yountville at noon on a Thursday in June. Highway 29 is a commercial corridor with very good wine on either side of it. Silverado Trail is a two-lane road running parallel along the eastern wall of the valley — the Vaca Mountains climbing on your right, the vineyard floor dropping away on your left, no stoplights between Napa and Calistoga. Rent the convertible. Take the Trail.

The real ritual: leave Napa city early, stop at the Oakville Grocery on 29 for provisions — the olive selection, a wedge of whatever cheese looks right, something cold from the bottle case — and then point north on Silverado with no fixed agenda. The valley changes completely as you push toward Calistoga: it narrows, the mountains compress on both sides, the volcanic soil turns the hillsides a different shade in afternoon light. Calistoga is small and unhurried and has not yet been fully optimized for the tourist economy.

For the runners: the Napa to Sonoma Half Marathon is 13.1 miles through the valley floor, finishing at a winery in Carneros with wine at the line, a flat course, and a post-race situation that justifies whatever training you put in to get there. It sells out within days when registration opens in January. It also gives you a defensible reason to eat dinner the night before at Angele without negotiating with your conscience — twenty years in business, steak frites and moules marinière done without apology, a wine list that doesn’t try to be exclusively Napa-centric.

The version of Napa that serious wine people eventually find: drive Pritchard Hill Road on the eastern bench above Lake Hennessey. OVID is up there — appointment only, their Hexameter blend from volcanic ash soils at 1,800 feet of elevation pressing toward the top tier of what California Cabernet can actually be. None of this is walk-in territory, none of it is cheap, and all of it requires planning well in advance. That is the point.

Three things
worth knowing.

1

Angele Restaurant & Bar has been the most honest brasserie argument in the Napa Valley for over twenty years — the steak frites haven’t changed, the room fills on a Tuesday, and the Sancerre-by-the-glass situation is considerably better than it has any right to be in a valley that is mostly trying to sell you something red and expensive.

2

The Napa to Sonoma Half Marathon registration opens in January and closes within days — 13.1 miles through the valley floor with a winery finish and wine at the line is a genuinely compelling pitch, but the harder argument is convincing yourself to train for it while also conducting the level of field research that a trip to this valley properly requires.

3

OVID’s white blend, Experiment — a technically ambitious mix from Pritchard Hill fruit — is the more interesting bottle if you secure the appointment: less discussed than the Hexameter, harder to find at retail after release, and usually still available at the winery at the exact moment you’d expect it not to be.

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